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Twice-Cooked Cured Pork (回锅腊肉)

Cured Pork Belly Boiled Then Stir-Fried with Leeks

Prep15 min
Cook15 min
Serves3
DifficultyEasy
SchoolXiangjiang
SpiceMedium-Spicy

Twice-cooked cured pork (回锅腊肉, huí guō là ròu) is a Hunan adaptation of the famous Sichuan twice-cooked pork (hui guo rou). The name 'twice-cooked' (hui guo, meaning 'returned to the pot') refers to the two-stage cooking process: the cured pork is first boiled to soften it and remove excess salt, then stir-fried with vegetables and spices. Hunan cured pork (la rou) adds a smoky depth that the Sichuan version lacks, as the pork has been smoked over wood for weeks. The boiled pork is sliced thin and stir-fried until the edges curl and become slightly crispy ('lan guo yan,' meaning 'lamp chimney edges'). It is then tossed with leeks, dried chilies, and doubanjiang, creating a dish that is smoky, savory, spicy, and utterly irresistible. The leeks provide a sweet, fresh counterpoint to the rich, smoky pork.

Hui guo: the twice-cooked tradition

The twice-cooked technique (hui guo, meaning 'returned to the pot') is one of the most beloved cooking methods in Chinese cuisine. It originated in Sichuan but has been adopted throughout China, with each region adding its own twist. The Hunan version uses cured pork (la rou) instead of fresh pork, giving the dish a distinctive smoky flavor. The technique involves two cooking stages: first boiling the pork to soften and clean it, then stir-frying it with spices and vegetables. The boiling stage is crucial, as it removes excess salt from the cured pork and makes it tender enough to slice thinly. The stir-frying stage renders the fat and creates the characteristic crispy, curled edges. The name 'hui guo' literally means 'return to the pot,' referring to the pork being cooked twice. In Hunan, this dish is a winter favorite, when freshly made la rou is at its best. It is often served during the Lunar New Year, when families gather to eat the cured pork they made for the holiday.

Ingredients

Hunan cured pork (la rou) is available at Chinese supermarkets. Smoked bacon can be used as a substitute.

  • 250 g Hunan cured pork belly (la rou)
  • 150 g leeks (or garlic leeks), cut into sections
  • 8 dried red chilies, cut into sections
  • 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
  • 5 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 inch ginger, sliced
  • 1 tbsp cooking oil
  • 1 tbsp doubanjiang (chili bean paste)
  • 1 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 1 tsp dark soy sauce
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp sesame oil

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Boil the cured pork. Place the cured pork belly in a pot of cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. This first cooking stage softens the hard, smoked pork and removes excess salt and surface smoke residue. The pork should be tender enough to slice thinly but not falling apart. Test by piercing with a chopstick; it should go in with slight resistance. Remove from the water and let cool. Save a small amount of the cooking liquid, as it can be used as a flavorful stock for soups or stir-fries. The boiling liquid will be dark and smoky-smelling.
  2. Slice the pork thin. Once the pork is cool enough to handle, slice it into thin pieces about 2 mm thick. The slices should be thin enough that they will crisp up quickly when stir-fried. The cured pork has a deep red color and visible layers of fat and lean meat. The fat is the most flavorful part, as it has absorbed the smoke during curing. Cut the slices into bite-size pieces if they are too large. Set aside. Discard the skin if it is too tough, or leave it on if you prefer the chewy texture.
  3. Render the pork fat. Heat a wok over medium heat. Add just 1 tablespoon of cooking oil, as the cured pork will release its own fat. Add the sliced pork in a single layer. Stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, pressing the slices against the hot wok. The pork fat will render out, and the edges of the slices will curl up and become crispy. This curling is called 'lan guo yan' (lamp chimney edges) and is the sign of properly cooked twice-cooked pork. The lean meat should be slightly browned and the fat should be transparent and crispy at the edges.
  4. Add the spices and seasonings. Push the pork to one side of the wok. Add the doubanjiang to the rendered fat and stir-fry for 15 seconds until the oil turns red. Add the dried chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry for 20 seconds until fragrant. Mix everything together, coating the pork with the spicy oil. Add the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and sugar. Stir well. The sugar balances the saltiness of the cured pork and the doubanjiang.
  5. Add the leeks and finish. Add the leek sections to the wok. Stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes until the leeks are slightly softened but still bright green and crunchy. The leeks provide a fresh, sweet contrast to the smoky, rich pork. Do not overcook the leeks, as they should retain their texture and color. Drizzle with sesame oil and give one final toss. Transfer to a plate and serve immediately with steamed rice. The dish should be glossy, with the crispy-edged pork, bright green leeks, and red oil creating a beautiful presentation. The flavor should be smoky, savory, slightly spicy, and deeply satisfying.
Chef's tips
  • Boil the cured pork first. This softens the hard smoked meat and removes excess salt.
  • Slice very thin. Thin slices crisp up quickly and evenly during stir-frying.
  • Render the fat well. Cook until the edges curl and become crispy for the best texture.
  • Do not overcook the leeks. They should be bright green and slightly crunchy.

Variations

Every Hunan dish has regional and personal variations. Here are some popular twists on this recipe.

With garlic shoots

Replace the leeks with 150 g of garlic shoots (suan miao) cut into 4 cm sections. Garlic shoots are the traditional pairing in Sichuan-style twice-cooked pork.

With bell peppers

Add 100 g of sliced green and red bell peppers for color and sweetness. The peppers add a fresh crunch and make the dish more visually appealing.

Extra spicy version

Increase the dried chilies to 15 and add 1 tablespoon of chili flakes for a fierier version that is more authentically Hunan.

Nutrition

Estimated values per serving (recipe serves 3). Values are approximate and will vary based on specific ingredients and portion sizes.

NutrientPer serving
Calories420 kcal
Protein20 g
Total fat34 g
Saturated fat12 g
Carbohydrates6 g
Sodium980 mg
Sugar3 g

Values are estimates. Cured pork is high in fat and sodium. Boiling removes some salt before stir-frying.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between Hunan and Sichuan twice-cooked pork?
The main difference is the type of pork used. Sichuan twice-cooked pork (hui guo rou) uses fresh pork belly that is boiled, sliced, and stir-fried with doubanjiang, sweet bean paste, and garlic shoots. Hunan twice-cooked cured pork (hui guo la rou) uses cured, smoked pork belly (la rou), which gives the dish a deep smoky flavor that the Sichuan version lacks. The Hunan version also tends to be less sweet and more smoky. Both use the twice-cooked technique of boiling then stir-frying, and both feature the characteristic crispy, curled pork edges. The Hunan version is a winter dish, as that is when la rou is traditionally made and consumed, while the Sichuan version is eaten year-round.
Can I use regular pork belly instead of cured pork?
You can use regular pork belly, but the dish will be a different recipe, closer to the Sichuan hui guo rou. If using fresh pork belly, boil it for 20 minutes with ginger and cooking wine, then slice and stir-fry as directed. You will need to add more salt and possibly some liquid smoke to approximate the smoky flavor of cured pork. However, the result will not have the same depth of flavor as authentic la rou. If you want the true Hunan experience, seek out cured pork belly (la rou) at a Chinese supermarket. It is worth the effort for the smoky, complex flavor it brings to the dish.
How long should I boil the cured pork?
Boil the cured pork for 15 to 20 minutes in plain water. The pork should be tender enough to slice thinly but not so soft that it falls apart. Test by piercing with a chopstick; it should go in with slight resistance. If the pork is very hard and dry, it may need up to 30 minutes of boiling. If it is relatively fresh and soft, 15 minutes may be sufficient. The boiling water will become dark and smoky-smelling, which is normal. Do not add salt to the boiling water, as the cured pork is already very salty. The boiling process removes some of the surface salt, making the pork pleasantly seasoned rather than overwhelmingly salty.
What are the best vegetables to pair with cured pork?
Leeks and garlic shoots are the most traditional pairings, as their sweet, fresh flavor complements the smoky, rich pork. Other good options include green bell peppers, garlic chives (jiu cai), celery, dried tofu (dou fu gan), and bamboo shoots. The key is to choose vegetables that can hold their own against the bold flavor of the cured pork. Delicate vegetables like spinach or bean sprouts will be overpowered. The vegetables should be cut into similar-sized pieces as the pork for even cooking and attractive presentation. You can also mix two or three vegetables for more variety, such as leeks with dried tofu and dried chilies.

Related Recipes

Cured pork is a cornerstone of Hunan cuisine. These dishes all feature la rou in different preparations.

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