Xiang braised duck neck (湘卤鸭脖, xiāng lǔ yā bó) is one of the most popular street snacks in Hunan. Duck necks are braised in a complex master stock (lu shui) infused with dozens of spices, dried chilies, and aromatics until the meat is deeply flavored and tender. The appeal of duck neck is not in the quantity of meat, which is modest, but in the intense, layered flavor and the satisfaction of gnawing every last morsel off the bone. The spice penetrates deep into the meat during the long braise, creating a numbing, spicy, savory experience that is incredibly addictive. In Hunan, braised duck neck shops are everywhere, and people buy them by the bagful to eat while watching TV, drinking beer, or chatting with friends. It is the Hunan equivalent of jerky, but infinitely more flavorful.
The master stock (lu shui, 卤水) is one of the great traditions of Chinese cooking. It is a spiced braising liquid that is reused again and again, with each batch of meat adding its own flavors to the stock. Some restaurants in China claim to have master stocks that are decades old, passed down through generations. Each time meat is braised in the stock, it releases proteins, fats, and gelatin that enrich the liquid, while the spices infuse it with their aromas. The stock is replenished with fresh water, soy sauce, and spices after each use. In Hunan, the master stock is distinguished by its heavy use of dried chilies and Sichuan peppercorns, giving the braised meats a distinctive numbing-spicy character. Braised duck neck became popular as a street snack in the 1990s in Wuhan and quickly spread to Hunan and throughout China. Today, pre-packaged braised duck neck is sold in convenience stores nationwide, but nothing compares to the freshly braised version made at home with a well-developed master stock.
Ingredients
Duck necks are available at Chinese butcher shops and Asian markets, usually frozen.
- 8 duck necks, skin removed
- 20 dried red chilies
- 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns
- 3 star anise
- 1 cinnamon stick (5 cm)
- 2 pieces dried tangerine peel (chenpi)
- 4 bay leaves
- 1 tsp fennel seeds and 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 8 garlic cloves, smashed
- 1 inch ginger, sliced
- 3 scallions, white parts
- 3 tbsp light soy sauce
- 2 tbsp dark soy sauce
- 3 tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine
- 2 tbsp sugar
- 1 liter water
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Prepare the duck necks. Remove the skin and excess fat from the duck necks. Cut off the head if still attached. Rinse thoroughly under cold water, making sure to clean inside any cavities. In a large pot of boiling water, blanch the duck necks for 3 to 4 minutes to remove blood and impurities. Drain and rinse under cold water. This step is essential for a clean-tasting result, as duck necks can have a strong gamey flavor if not properly cleaned. Set aside.
- Prepare the spice pouch. Place the star anise, cinnamon stick, dried tangerine peel, bay leaves, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds in a piece of cheesecloth or a spice bag. Tie it closed. This makes it easy to remove the whole spices later without fishing them out individually. The spice blend is what gives the duck neck its distinctive aroma. Each spice contributes a different note: star anise for sweetness, cinnamon for warmth, tangerine peel for citrusy brightness, bay leaves for depth, fennel and cumin for earthiness.
- Build the master stock. In a large pot, combine the water, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, cooking wine, sugar, dried chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, ginger, scallion whites, and the spice pouch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to develop. The stock should be dark, aromatic, and deeply savory. Taste it and adjust if needed. It should be salty, slightly sweet, and spicy. This master stock (lu shui) is the heart of the dish.
- Braise the duck necks. Add the blanched duck necks to the simmering stock. The liquid should cover the necks; if not, add more water. Bring back to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 60 to 70 minutes, turning the necks occasionally for even cooking. The necks are done when the meat is tender and easily pulls away from the bone, but should not be falling apart completely. They should still hold their shape for eating by hand.
- Steep in the stock. Turn off the heat and let the duck necks steep in the stock for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours if you have time. This steeping period is crucial, as it allows the flavors to penetrate deep into the meat. The necks will continue to absorb the spicy, savory stock as they cool. For even deeper flavor, refrigerate the necks in the stock overnight and reheat gently before serving.
- Serve. Remove the duck necks from the stock and let them drain. They can be served warm or at room temperature. Arrange on a plate and serve as a snack with cold beer or tea. To eat, hold the neck by the bone and gnaw the meat off, working your way around the bone. The meat should be tender, deeply flavored with spice and chili, and slightly numbing from the Sichuan peppercorns. The master stock can be strained, cooled, and frozen for future use. Each time you reuse it, it becomes more flavorful, which is why it is called a master stock.
- Save the master stock. Strain and freeze it after use. Each reuse makes it more flavorful.
- Steep for deeper flavor. Letting the necks sit in the stock after cooking allows flavors to penetrate.
- Remove the skin. Duck neck skin is tough and fatty; removing it gives a better texture.
- Blanch before braising. This removes blood and gamey flavors for a cleaner taste.
Variations
Every Hunan dish has regional and personal variations. Here are some popular twists on this recipe.
With duck wings and feet
Add duck wings and feet to the braise along with the necks for a mixed duck platter. Different parts have different textures and all are delicious braised in the master stock.
Extra numbing version
Increase the Sichuan peppercorns to 2 tablespoons and add 1 teaspoon of green Sichuan peppercorn oil at the end for an intensely numbing experience.
With soy eggs
Add 4 hard-boiled, peeled eggs to the stock during the last 20 minutes of steeping. The eggs absorb the spicy stock and become a delicious side snack.
Nutrition
Estimated values per serving (recipe serves 4). Values are approximate and will vary based on specific ingredients and portion sizes.
| Nutrient | Per serving |
|---|---|
| Calories | 220 kcal |
| Protein | 28 g |
| Total fat | 10 g |
| Saturated fat | 3 g |
| Carbohydrates | 6 g |
| Sodium | 1200 mg |
| Sugar | 3 g |
Values are estimates. This dish is high in sodium due to the soy sauce-based master stock.
Frequently Asked Questions
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